The Bespoke Woodworker

This may seem an odd post, considering most of my posting consists of finished projects and hand tool work, but don’t be decieved, I’m a mixed tool user, not a pure neanderthal!

I sold a few more tools that I don’t use, including a 24″ Leigh D4 Dovetail jig, and I purchased a Byrd Tool shelix head for my DW735 Planer.  I’ve been a huge fan of shelix/helical cutters since I purchased my Grizzly 0490X jointer, and I knew someday I’d end up with a sheer cutting planer to match, and the time seemed right.

The instructions on the byrd website are hard to find.  I ended up using google to find them, buried quite well.  They are not included in the box.  They can be found here.

Now, I suggest some revisions to those instructions, as follows, in order of use, as the planer instructions go.

These tools are not listed as required, but I strongly suggest you’ll avoid a lot of cursing if you just have them on hand.

• A big socket wrench, with a 22mm socket.
• A SERIOUS heavy duty inner and outer capable pair of ring pliers.  Not the cheap $9.95 ones from a generic auto parts store.
• Blue thread lock. (to re-lock the chain drive tensioners.)
• A hair dryer (not optional for cold shops.)

Technique notes:

On the far right hand side of the new head, you should remove the last 3 rows of planer inserts.  When you’re trying to get the bearings seated, this will make life much easier, as you can move the head around without worrying about snapping off or dulling your inserts on the aluminum housing.   Not required, but I’d advise it.

To remove the pulley, especially in a cold shop, where the aluminum pulley will have shrunk down tight and become nigh impossible to budge, take the hair dryer, set it to high heat and point it alternately at the outside and the inside of the pulley.    Even on high, you won’t damage the plastic.  You will if you try something like a paint stripping gun, which is why I don’t recommend it.  After a few minutes of alternating you will have heated up the pulley to the point it should pop off easy.  Use gloves, as that pullet will be hot, and can still burn your fingers!

Be VERY careful on the chain tensioner screws.  They’re very very shallow phillips head screws, they’re thread locked in, and they’re made of a very weak metal.  Incredibly easy to strip.  I suggest you avoid using the phillips head hole at all, file two opposing flats, and use an adjustable wrench or pliers to break the thread lock seal before unscrewing.

As far as the finished product is concerned, I’m a very happy camper so far.  I ran some dry curly maple with really random grain through it, and the cut quality was just wonderful.

I didn’t get an opportunity to do much more blogging on the trays as  I was hurrying to finish up some Christmas gifts.  Here you can see both trays completed.

I really like the way the compass rose came out.  I think I might try to see if I can do a little bit of grain filling, or look for a little bit less porous dark wood next time around.  You can see the finish gave the Walnut that I used a little bit of a darker filling in the grain lines.  Not an effect I was shooting for, but I’m sure nobody but me cares about it either!

And since this is a short post, I’ll throw in some gratuitous shots of the cutting boards I just completed.