I sold a few more tools that I don’t use, including a 24″ Leigh D4 Dovetail jig, and I purchased a Byrd Tool shelix head for my DW735 Planer.  I’ve been a huge fan of shelix/helical cutters since I purchased my Grizzly 0490X jointer, and I knew someday I’d end up with a sheer cutting planer to match, and the time seemed right.

The instructions on the byrd website are hard to find.  I ended up using google to find them, buried quite well.  They are not included in the box.  They can be found here.

Now, I suggest some revisions to those instructions, as follows, in order of use, as the planer instructions go.

These tools are not listed as required, but I strongly suggest you’ll avoid a lot of cursing if you just have them on hand.

• A big socket wrench, with a 22mm socket.
• A SERIOUS heavy duty inner and outer capable pair of ring pliers.  Not the cheap $9.95 ones from a generic auto parts store.
• Blue thread lock. (to re-lock the chain drive tensioners.)
• A hair dryer (not optional for cold shops.)

Technique notes:

On the far right hand side of the new head, you should remove the last 3 rows of planer inserts.  When you’re trying to get the bearings seated, this will make life much easier, as you can move the head around without worrying about snapping off or dulling your inserts on the aluminum housing.   Not required, but I’d advise it.

To remove the pulley, especially in a cold shop, where the aluminum pulley will have shrunk down tight and become nigh impossible to budge, take the hair dryer, set it to high heat and point it alternately at the outside and the inside of the pulley.    Even on high, you won’t damage the plastic.  You will if you try something like a paint stripping gun, which is why I don’t recommend it.  After a few minutes of alternating you will have heated up the pulley to the point it should pop off easy.  Use gloves, as that pullet will be hot, and can still burn your fingers!

Be VERY careful on the chain tensioner screws.  They’re very very shallow phillips head screws, they’re thread locked in, and they’re made of a very weak metal.  Incredibly easy to strip.  I suggest you avoid using the phillips head hole at all, file two opposing flats, and use an adjustable wrench or pliers to break the thread lock seal before unscrewing.

As far as the finished product is concerned, I’m a very happy camper so far.  I ran some dry curly maple with really random grain through it, and the cut quality was just wonderful.

I grabbed some spare Sipo and some spare Maple that already happened to be an appropriate width, a hair over 1/4″ and 3/4″ respectively.

Crosscut and hit them with a smoothing plane.

A nice full width mortise courtesy of a tenoning jig.  (I’m sure Adam would not approve!)  Then get it as close to square as my starret will show me, and some glue and clamps.

After resting overnight, I declamped, and smoothed it, and rechecked for square.

Came out as close as I could get it judging by visible light between it and the reference square.

To ensure no movement, and because it just looks cool, I decided to toss in some pegs out of scrap Padouk.  I made a dowel plate (see previous blog post) and whipped out a dowel.

I drilled out some holes.

Then finally pegged and smoothed.

Finished with a thin coat of BLO just to keep the glue off.

Fin!

I had previously seen the L-N Dowel plate, but at $50, it seemed an extravagance. $100 if you want the metric version, as well. It seems like such a simple tool. A steel plate with some holes. As I’m in a toomaking frenzy, I decided, once again, to dive in and try it myself.  I had some 1.5″x.25″ flat plate stock, so I got myself a 6″ piece and went to work with the milling machine.   You could just as easily do this in a drill press.  I elected 7 holes, to correspond with the wood bits I use most, a quality 7 piece Colt 5 Star brad point set.  It includes: 1/8″, 3/16″, 1/4″, 5/16″, 3/8″, 7/16″, & 1/2″ sizes.

It ended up being relatively trivial.  I used some Ti coated twist drill bits.  I still lack a 7/16, which is why you see a gap in plate.  I saved room for it.

I merely cut some stock to size, whittle off the corners, and pound it through.    If I have any trouble, I run a small burr up the edges with a burnisher.

Works perfectly!

I may whip out a metric version too.

Now that it actually was tensioned like a working saw, I had no choice but to give it a try!

You may notice that offcut from my circle cutting inlay tool test.  I decided to follow the circular groove, and even with the low TPI blade, it still followed it just fine.

I decided to turn the handles, as I hadn’t fired up my Rikon in a little while.  I roughed a nice long blank.

Drilled it out.

And then shaped and installed them!

I haven’t glued them on yet, as I’m waiting for a small variety assortment of set screws to arrive.  I’m not sure if I’m going to like the handles I made long term.  The recommendations have them quite thin, and I have meaty hands.  Handle shaping can be  a very personal decision, so I’ll temporarily attach them with set screws, and either replace them, or permanently glue them in, after some test work.

The website also makes some excellent measured drawings available in PDF form, even if you don’t buy their kit and blades, although I strongly recommend it!

I had some excellent leftover workbench Ash, and I found a nick thick piece with straight grain in it.  Or at least straight after I do a little riving.   I found good grain lines, then ran a mark off with a ruler.

Then I sliced off the offcut.

Repeat a few more times, and you’ve got some nice straight grain pieces for your stretcher and arms.

I decided to do all my joinery first, while my stock was still square and indexable.  First the tenons.

Then drilling holes for the blade and handle retainers.

I marked mortises from my tenons.

And cut the tenons.   Note that since I have not yet shaped anything, the tenon is extra deep.

I started gently on the shaping.  I know that I can easily take this too far.

I clamped up the stretcher and went to down with a spokeshave, until it felt and looked good.  Very little measurements went into this part, other than locating the ‘middle’ for my eye.

Stretcher completed

Here I kind of just sketched onto the arm from the diagram, then bandsawed and sanded until I liked it.    Then I traced the first arm onto the second, and repeated.

Some more sanding and shaping later, we’re looking good!  I also whipped out a quick toggle pin.

With a blade temporarily tensioned by string, we’re starting to look like a saw!   I need to hit the sporting goods store and pick up some braided fishing line.  The cotton string you see is just for show, and won’t hold up under tension.

I did notice that the saw definitely has taken on a tilt upwards.  I think this is in part to me roughing the parts to size without leaving myself enough room to shape.  Since this is a fairly easy tool build, I may end up replacing the wooden parts later.  I’ll have to make sure I don’t permanently affix the handles so that they can be replaced easily later.  Maybe some set screws.

Enough for today though!

This is by far the simplest tool in the batch.  Really, its just a block of wood with 2 cuts, 2 rabbets, and 4 screws.

I didn’t think to actually take a live action photo of the uncut wood.  I’m sure you’ve seen curly maple before!  I put the two cuts in that I’ll be pulling the inlay through, and lined up the cutters to verify the size of the rabbet.

Then I lined up the cutters, with extra deep holes.

Recessed the holes, remounted the cutters, and cut a fairly simple and rough mortise, for clamping the block to the benchtop.

That is really all there is to it!

Some layout lines, and some cleanly sliced fibers with a Czeck Edge tool, and I’ve begun the hand cut mortise that will hold the crossbar.

I use my widest chisel, registering in the sliced fibers, to lightly relieve the cutlines, which provides a nice solid surface to register the chisel against for mortising actions.

Hogging out the waste is the same process as my previous tool, the Straight Line Cutter. No need to repeat those photos!.

Before I do any further shaping work, this time I think ahead and drill out the hole for the threaded insert and the final hole that the screw of the knurled knob passes through.

With the threaded insert in place, I’m ready to continue.

I drilled out a hole for the 1/4″ brass stock (boy, I’m getting a lot of use out of this 1 foot 1/4″ brass rod, 3 projects so far, $1.72!) and the hole runs true with the crossbar. I also laid out the brass rub strip. I ran out of 3/4″ x 3/32″ brass stock, so this time I’m using 1″ x 3/32″. I also sent off an order for more of that thin stock. Quite useful, and easily workable.

I did the preliminary brass work, rounding off a nub on the end of the brass rod, and cutting it down to size for the guide bar, as well as doing the cutoff on the flat stock for the rub strip.

I created the rabbet for the rub strip, and did some fine tuning, since I ended up a bit shy of the final depth I was looking for.

I started shaping the body with bandsaw and belt/oss sander.

And we’re looking good!

With cutter in position.   I lightly inset the cutter with my little router plane, to help ensure the cutter didn’t move at all.

Fin!

Like the first tool, all I had was a resized and pixelated image from the L-N website, the cutter, and some thin brass bar stock from Speedy Metals.

I trimmed an 8/4 block to size, and then used the offcut to give myself a nice 4/4 square crossbar.  I also selected the 3/32″ x 3/4″ brass stock.  360 Brass is an extremely workable material, and it doesn’t rust, which makes it an excellent metal for integrating into your woodworking tools.

I laid out the general shape of my final tool, and marked where I’d like the various mortise and rub strip to be located at.

The hardest part would be to keep the mortise walls perpendicular, so that the beam that supports the cutter will remain in line with the work.  You don’t want your inlay skewed into the workpiece sideways, and if the radius cutter’s teeth don’t run in a straight line, the width of your inlay will be the wrong size for the work.    First, I bored out most of the waste.

Then I used my marking knife (made from a kit from Czeck Edge) and a backer block to edge a nice straight line from corner to corner.   I then lightly chiseled and relieved the edge, to give myself a nice reference surface.

Here’s my in-action shot, of truing up the sides of the mortise all around.

The bar drops in, and remains almost dead perpendicular.

Given I did it with hand tools, the mortise is probably as dead true as I’m going to be able to make it.

If you’d like to cheat, then I suggest you hog out the hole with an undersize forstner bit, make a template, and slowly remove the side wall waste with a flush pattern trim bit on your router table, and only do the final corner bits by hand, so you’ll have 4 large surfaces to reference against.

Next I cut the overhang area, where the brass wear strip will be mounted, and that the tool will ride on.

I did this in a 2-cut pass on the tablesaw, with no trapped waste.  It was just just shy of perfect, so that the ATB blade I had loaded would not leave an unsightly groove.  I cleaned out the small nib with a rabbet block plane.

With that cleaned up, I cut the brass stock to size with a hacksaw, and taped it in place so that I could predrill the screw holes into my stock.  You’ll notice that the whole piece is fastened in place pretty well.   I find when working with metal, this is worth the few extra seconds.

I got the holes drilled out, and just barely let the countersink touch them.

This is why I hate multi-flute countersinks.  Inevetible chatter.

I have to pick up a single flute job for this particular brass screw.  On the todo list!   I removed the screws and began to clean up the holes by hand with the multi-flute as best I could.

I mounted the wear strip, and screwed it in.  You’ll notice the screw heads do protrude a tiny bit.  Yes, this is on purpose!  I find if you leave them a bit proud, that after you file them down, you get a much tighter fit than if you set them in all the way, since the screw’s lip is rounded, and the countersink is a straight wall.

Then I filed it flush with the bottom of the body of the tool.

Looking good so far.

I probably should have taken this step earlier, since I’m not balancing the tool on a half-side, hence the elaborate clamping, so lesson learned!  So much easier to make a mistake like this once you’ve got a good aftermarket drill press table!  The hole is for the 1/4-20 threaded insert which will hold the knurled bolt that retains the cutter bar’s distance from the work.

This is my favorite way to install a threaded insert.  The only thing I would also have done is to put a washer in place between the first nut and the threaded insert, but I needed this insert to sit slightly below the level of the wood to hide it.   I never use the flats cut into the threaded insert, as they almost always leave some thin shavings in the well of the threaded insert, which eat up the brass threads.   I probably should have used an actual brass insert, but I didn’t have any, and these were included with a Rockler T-Track make-your-own kit I got, so I used them!

With brass knurled knob installed!

With the retaining knob out of the way, I moved back to the wear strip, and my effort to pretty it up.  I got my very fine bastard file, and went to town.  I followed it up with some 320grit to give it a slightly better polish.  I don’t take it any higher than that on a work surface like this.  It isn’t jewelry, its a tool!

Some quick work at the bandsaw, followed by the belt/OSS sander, and we’ve got a shape pleasing to my fat hands.   Although the tool is a bit oversized, I find I get a good comfortable grip on it.  Perhaps a I’ll eventually “Krenov” it to fit my hand, once I try it out some.

Last up, I’ve got to prep the cutter bar to hold the cutter.  Quick eyeball layout.

Pre-drilled hole looks good.

And we’re good to go!

It cuts beautifully.

Next up, Slicing Gauge!

I mounted the radius cutter, going about 1/16th to 1/8th deeper than the brass pivot point, so that the cutter will remain as perpendicular to the work as possible.  Since the holes in the cutter to attach it to the tool are oval, there is some room for adjustment later on.

It isn’t perfect, but my version bears a faint similarity to the wholeheartedly cloned L-N/Latta version.  (Cheesy pixelated/resized Internet photo in the background there!)  Based on my eyeball sizing, I made this tool oversized, much like the others will undoubtedly be.

I have to admit though, aesthetic concerns aside, the tool cuts a pretty neat curve.  I can tell that this tool is one that will definitely require some practice to master.  While this circle looks good, there are some areas where I could tell that the depth was uneven.  I think I might create a small depth stop gauge to slide onto the cutter, so that I can do a ‘final pass’ against a depth stop and make sure that I have a nice uniform seat for the inlay strips to register against.

Also, I’ve discovered that I should make the head as small as I can, and get the pivot point moved up as far as I can. This tool limits my ability to make small circles somewhat.  I think my minimum is about ~2 inches, which is OK, but I may choose to make a second one in smaller dimensions to insure I can make smaller circles.  The thing to keep in mind, is that the distance between the pivot point and the cutter is the final circle’s radius, not it’s diameter!  We’ll see how it works in practice.

Now, in order to make the inlay, I’ve got to create the other tools so that I can test out my circular cutter!

Somehow I managed to lose the first few photos of my progress on the first tools, so I apologize in advance.  I decided to start with what appears to be the most difficult of the 4 tools, the Radius Cutter.  At it’s heart, this consists of 2 parallel guide bars, a cutter, and pinion, and a set screw to keep the bars from sliding.

Since I’ve lost my original photos, I’ll have to improvise and describe my process.   I bought some 1/4″ brass rod stock from my favorite metals supplier, Speedy Metals.  (I’m also a bit of an amateur metalworker, but that is another blog post entirely!)

I also used some scrap cherry, and drilled two long 1/4″ holes through it.  I then cut about an inch off the end for the ‘head’ of the inlay tool, and glued the two rods into the head with Epoxy.  I didn’t properly plan how the epoxy was going to get out of the hole, and while pushing the rods in, perhaps a little too aggressively, I managed to split the head.    However, the 5 minute epoxy leaked through the small split, and dried quickly enough to keep the head a solid.   Sort of a self-fixing mistake.

On the other half of the body, I brought a burr up on the end of some brass rod stock, and used it like a scraper to help widen the holes enough to make the passage of the body over the brass rod nice and smooth, then installed a 1/4-20 threaded insert, and trimmed a brass 1/4-20 knurled knob down to appropriate length to act as the stop mechanism.  Here’s the main body.

The other portion of the tool is the actual pivot point that the radius cutter registers the body on.  I was thinking about doing another inset nut and grind or file a screw head, but I realized this doesn’t really need to be adjustable.   I don’t see myself doing any inlay on a very curved surface.  I decided to just grind a nice point on a piece of brass stock, then trim it off and simply epoxy it in place.   Ive made so many mistakes at this point I’ll probably do a less error-prone version of this tool eventually,  so why not.

That should do it for today!